Vietnam

H u n g r y f o r a d o s e o f h i s t o r y , t h i r s t y f o r s c e n i c c o u n t r y s i d e , r e a d y t o t r a d e y o u r s t o m a c h
f o r g r e a t c u i s i n e a n d e y e s f o r s m i l i n g f a c e s a n d b e a u t i f u l p a g o d a s ? C o m e t o V i e t n a m - X i n C h a o ! !

As I landed in Hanoi on a beautiful Friday afternoon, I knew instantly that I was in for a great cultural discovery from the North to the South and, everything in between! The major sign of change in Vietnam greets you from Hanoi’s airport to the city. A modern toll road appears from nowhere and soars over lush, green rice fields and when it gently blends into a clutter of shops, more motor bikes than people, tree-lined Parisian style streets dotted with French Colonial buildings, gentle parks and lakes; you know this is Hanoi, surely Asia's most charming capital.

Hanoi: The Capital City, that I would call the “Beijing” of Vietnam, the comparison is obvious! Saigon is like Shanghai, free-wheeling and westernized. For many years, Beijing clamped down on Shanghai, much as Hanoi has with Saigon. But just like Beijing, which underwent rapid modernization, Hanoi is loosening up indeed. Money is moving into the capital, seen in its trendy restaurants, elegant fashion; a string of cafes that serve the best coffee in Asia where music plays, poetry is read. Indeed Hanoi is becoming Southeast Asia's renaissance city. An ancient city with youthful vigor!

Must See & Stay: Stepping into the past and re-living its history, you must spend a day exploring Hanoi. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Ho Chi Minh’s House, The Presidential Palace, The One Pillar Pagoda, The Hoa Loa Prison and the “Hanoi Hilton” are the sites done in one morning. At the end of this you may not wish to walk any further! So go right out and enjoy an hour long cyclo ride trailing through the Old Town of Hanoi, passing by the elegant Hanoi Opera House, open airshops, street vendors and a closer peek at the local life. Like the "beca" or trishaw in Penang, and the “tuk tuk” in Bangkok, these cyclos are a must ride in Hanoi! A stroll down Hoan Kiem Lake ends with a visit to the mysterious Temple of Literature. Ample time to enjoy great lunch of Vietnamese or Western Cuisine. Our recommendations are: The Club de L’Oriental (dress code needed), Vine, Bobby Chin or La Badiane. For those who do not care much for the ambience but need a more authentic local flavor, try Cha Ca Lo Vong the famous restaurant to many Hanoian as well as visitors from all over the world. But remember it is substandard and truly local. For an evening in Hanoi, immerse yourself with traditional music and art of the Vietnamese Water Puppetry.

Of course, it’s important to elegantly dine and sample some of the best cuisine found nowhere else, but in
Hanoi and our recommendations are: La Verticale, Nineteen 11, Wild Lotus, and Green Tangerine

When it comes to retiring to your hotel room for a good night’s sleep there is no better address than the charming and super elegant Sofitel Metropole Hotel! This French Colonial gem in the Old Quarter of the city offers impeccable service and only a short walk to The Opera House.

Wheeling North…
My next stop was a three hour drive on a smooth highway passing through lush green countryside to arrive at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ha Long - Bay of the Descending Dragon! Vinh Ha Long or Bay of the Descending Dragon: In the northeastern part of Vietnam and 165 Km from Hanoi it is often touted by proud Vietnamese as the world's Eighth wonder. Ha Long Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin, includes some 1,600 islands and islets, forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. One of the main attractions of Ha long is the bay's calm water and the thousands of Limestone Mountains dotting the seascape.

Must See & Stay: You come to Halong Bay to soak in its beauty, not just sail. Cruising in a wooden junk that’s traditionally modern, offers the luxury you need in a gentle fashion, and therefore an overnight or two on board these junks are a MUST. While you cruise through the towering grottoes, these is so much to see and experience - local villages that have taken shelter under the limestone mountains, children rowing their boats to their floating schools; it’s a community on the water! There are the Surprise Caves for a stunning photo stop, beautiful, unspoilt islands and beaches. Kayaking is highly recommended and can be arranged by the attentive crew on board. As the sun sets, your junk docks amidst the grottoes; the sky is dark, studded with infinite stars, an appetizing aroma of a fresh seafood dinner are the perfect accompanist for a peaceful evening. Gaze at the sky from the sun deck, the air is fresh, the sounds are pure and the water is calm. At dawn, there is Tai Chi on board followed by more excursions! When you return to your junk a sumptuous brunch awaits you before disembarking and driving back to Hanoi.

Flying to the center
A three hour drive brought me back into Hanoi heading straight to the airport. It was time to say good bye to
Hanoi and Hello to Hue! Before, I realized, I found myself sitting on the plane flying off to the Center of Vietnam. With a comfortable hour and ten minute flight on Vietnam Airlines, an on-board crew of young, welcoming Vietnamese men and women, a box of light snacks for free - flying within Vietnam is an absolute pleasure.

Hue: Located in central Vietnam on the banks of the Huang River, South of Hanoi, Hue is the ancient capital of southern Vietnam during the 18th century. The Vietnamese refer to Hue as "the beautiful city" and it's considered the culinary center of central Vietnam. Hue is a traveler's dream, with 200 year-old imperial architecture, dozens of pagodas and temples and friendly, gentle people who are glad you've come.The difference is striking the moment you step onto the main street from Hue’s small but efficient airport. The city is calm, has a soothing appeal that is dominated mainly by slow pace of life. Life here is laid back and elegantly dipped in its beautiful past. It is here you will see and experience an authentic Vietnamese way of life and perhaps you will never want to leave!

Must See & Stay: Within the city is the Imperial Citadel, home of the Emperor and the Forbidden City. This sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, walls, museums and galleries is the centerpiece of Hue. It is here where one can truly appreciate the history and charm of Vietnam's past, its tranquility and beauty. A gentle cruise on the Perfume River as long as you don’t expect spectacular sceneries and here for a local experience, you will discover a myriad of monuments line along the river including the tombs of several emperors such as Minh Mang, Khai Dinh, Tu Duc. Also notable is the Thien Mu Pagoda, the largest pagoda in Hue and chosen as the official symbol of the City.

The Imperial cuisine: Originally prepared for the Emperor, Hue is a great culinary experience one can't pass up. Our recommendations are: The Ancient Hue, Tha Om House, and Y Tho. Also, try “Bun Bo Hue” a traditional noodle soup, with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil.

While in Hue, stay elegantly at the La Residence Resort & Spa, a distinctive art deco design reminiscent of
colonial Indochina. This is a former governor's residence, restored and converted into Vietnam's newest boutique hotel on the banks of the Perfume River overlooking the Imperial Citadel.

Over the Hai Van Pass…
After immersing into the ancient past, how about relaxing with a cool, ocean breeze? That exactly was my
agenda traveling from Hue to Danang via the Hai Van Pass! Many people told me that the drive from Hue to Danang is the most scenic in all of Vietnam and I've no reason to argue with that. As you leave the Imperial City behind, a sequence of valleys and a long peninsula separates a shallow lagoon from the sea dotted with traditional Hue style houses. On this journey unfolds yet another natural wonder of this beautiful country, the Hai Van Pass that literally means “Sea Clouds”. The pass forms an obvious boundary between North and South Vietnam and the highest in the country (1640 feet above sea level). A 12 mile climb through several hair-pin curves for close to an hour, you reach the crest of the Hai Van Pass with its foot close to the sea and its head touching the sky. Weather permitting; the scenery is glorious and romantic with spectacular views of the South China Sea. Of course a must for a photo stop, but be warned of a large band of souvenir and snack sellers who are among the most aggressive I encountered during the whole trip.

For the faint-hearted who wish to avoid the Hai Van Pass, there is a tunnel that connects with Danang.

Into the Big Bowl of Danang Bay…
Finally after a journey of about three hours from Hue, descend into the big bowl of Danang Bay, Vietnam's
history-laden seaport town.

Must See, if time permits: A brief stop at The Cham Museum that houses the relics of the powerful Hindu culture that once ruled vast tracts of central Vietnam. Featuring the largest collection of Cham sculpture in the world. The Marble Mountains: A series of five marble and limestone formations. For the Vietnamese it is a place of significance so be prepared to be elbow passing with a group of locals. If you don’t want to stop, you can easily see the mountains en route to or from Hoi An.

Dock at Hoi An…
Hoi An: An Ancient Town, exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. 18 miles South of Danang on the banks of the Thu Bon River, Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets.

What was most striking to me was the houses here! Made of rare wood, decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters. This quaint riverside town seemed very popular with tourists for its eclectic architecture, tailors shops, and numerous cafes.

Must See & Stay: A walking tour of the Old Town of Hoi An through the narrow winding streets of the Ancient Quarter visiting Chua Ong Pagoda, the 200- year old Tam Ky ancestral house and the Japanese Bridge. A biking tour in and around Hoi An is highly recommended for the adventurous sort and don’t miss the “Tailoring”! Every other shop is a tailor and they can make anything for very cheap, copy any design you like and the result is presented at your hotel door within 24 hours. Amongst the many Café’s that line up this Old Town, The Brother’s Café, The Mango Room and the Full Moon Restaurant are our recommendations. Finally I was ready to indulge in luxury at the gorgeous Nam Hai! On a prime stretch of Ha My Beach on the unbroken swathe of alluring soft white sands of the South China Sea, sits the Nam Hai!

Elegant, stylish and in a perfect harmony with mother nature. The design flows along traditional lines with useful modern touches. Service is great and most villas sit right on the beach. This is a destination in itself with a great Spa and two gourmet restaurants on site!

Heading for a Hideaway
Welcome to the other side of Vietnam! A Short flight from Danang brought me into a beautiful sea-side town of Nha Trang a proud host of Miss Universe 2008, where the signs of the event are still displayed.

Nha Trang: A beautiful resort town known for miles of beaches where the water is warm year round just like the people here. Driving through some spectacular scenery from the tiny airport, I stopped at the Evason Ana Mandara for lunch, a beautiful beach front resort right in the heart of the city. After a hearty seafood lunch, a 25 minute speedboat ride brought me into a world of its own. Zip over the blue waters of the South China Sea moving towards a towering mountain with its impressive rock formations, dotted with brilliantly placed stylish cottages that creates a dramatic setting called The Six Senses Hideaway, Ninh Van Bay! As you disembark on the jetty, what greets you is nature and the warm staff! A perfect location for relaxation, positioned in a calm, sheltered bay, means that you can enjoy many activities and excursions on the water and on land. Whether you choose to join an excursion, or make use of the resort's facilities - this is your time, spend the way you like!
Through the Champa Kingdom…
On an interesting 4 hour drive through the Champa Kingdom, I witnessed the Indian influence in Vietnam dating back to 2nd century AD. The drive passes through local villages of the Cham People proudly displaying the Cham Towers that resemble the beautiful Hindu Temples found in India. As I remained puzzled the scenery now turns into carpets of red sand that travels along with you and finally stacks up into stunningly beautiful sand dunes that you would never imagine seeing in Vietnam, this is the town of Mui Ne!

Mui Ne Beach: This sunny town of Vietnam boasts of fresh local seafood, windsurfing, white Sand Dunes, the ancient ruins of the Champa Kingdom and unspoilt beaches - Mui Ne is loaded with fun! The main street in town runs through a series of bars and small hotels on one side, with local houses standing in opposition on the other side. You will spend an overnight in Mui Ne only if you want to be surrounded by the action. The best spot on the main street is the brand new L'Anmien Mui Ne Resort & Spa. But I strongly recommend driving 30 minutes out to the beautiful fishing town of Phan Thiet and staying at the brand new oasis of luxury – The Princess d’Annam.

The town of Phan Thiet: Located on an arm of the South China Sea, is one of Vietnam's most important fishing areas and pristine beaches. Local people in Phan Thiet regularly practice a ceremony to a whale god, which is believed to give good luck in nautical pursuits.

Must see & stay: An early morning visit to a local fishing village is a must. The local fishing boats line up on the sandy beaches with its fresh catch sold in the street side market on the shores. For accommodation, Princess d’Annam, is a grand white structure designed by an award-winning architect. The resort style mixes modernist sensibility and post colonial ambience. Sitting right on the beach looking to an age-old lighthouse this open air oasis in the lap of luxury is an ideal way to relax and get pampered.

To the South…
A 4 hour drive to the famous Ho Chi Minh City was my final stop. The drive is long, beautiful for the most part and the rest is good to take a nap.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon): An invigorating sense of excitement about Vietnam is felt the second I arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. That's the official name of the nation's largest city and financial hub, but nobody, except perhaps high-level government officials, calls it that. To residents, whether street sweepers, sales clerks or company presidents, this city still is Saigon. A crowded, teeming place, populated by, depending upon where you draw the lines, four to six million people, in constant motion on bikes and cyclos, in cars and buses.

Must see & stay: Saigon has a great mix of cultural and educational experiences. I would highly recommend the War
Museum, a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels, definitely the noon mass at the Cao Dai Temples of Tay Ninh. Exploring the great examples of French Colonial architecture, the post office, the Opera House, the Notre Dame Cathedral. Don’t miss the China Town! For those with more time at disposal a boat trip to the Mekong Delta with its rice fields, islands loaded with fruit orchards, houses built on stilts and narrow bamboo bridges is highly recommended. A closer look to the local life is on The Good Morning Saigon Tour. At 6 am head out to the park and join the join the local people for Tai Chi Chuan. After the morning exercise, visit the north entrance of the Ben Thanh Market to see the sellers start their business (fish, meat, vegetables, fruits and flowers); busy setting up their stalls it’s a sight to watch! From here I headed to try the Pho (noodle soup) for breakfast as well as traditional Vietnamese coffee. For the culinary pleasure our recommendations are: Au Manoir de Khai, On The Six, Quan An Ngon, La Camerague, The Nam Kha and The Temple Club. The lovely Park Hyatt is the only address for those seeking luxury right in the heart of the hustle of this city and service that exceeds expectations.

With a promise to return, as I headed to the airport for my flight back home to Tampa, I thought to myself, what it takes is hard work and commitment, the kind shown for centuries by women in colonial hats who continue to pluck and plant the green fields by the road. Vietnam, the proof here is performance; truly this is a destination of the new millennium!